Several factors during the past two months have prevented a post. Not least was my own beekeeping, or rather, bee-losing experience. How could I advise beekeeping when my efforts to “keep” didn’t succeed?
I have written urgently in previous posts about the absolute necessity of beginning early to prepare for winter—to keep mites under control and to feed during all non-nectar flow periods to keep the queen brooding. I wrote with a ring of guarantee. “Do this and your bees will survive.” A sort of ticket to success.
But, my experience of the past two months has reminded me once again that our hobby (or business) of keeping bees is more a craft or art than a science. There is no 1-2-3 set of steps that can guarantee success. No checklist. No method or mechanical procedure. Rather, we are only necessary, yet small participants in the complex, unique, and wonderful, synergism of insects, weather, parasites, and disease—a dance or, shall we say a school, sometimes exhilarating and often disappointing. And so I do have a bit of advice from the school of hard knocks: learn and start again. It’s beekeeping and it’s life.
What happened? Mites were under control. Feeding was rigorous and, for a while, productive—nice, healthy brood. Everything was on track early and well for a good winter. What I missed was the early signs of European Foulbrood. I have not paid much attention to this disease over the past several years—almost forgot about it. But by all appearances, the healthy brood I thought I had, possessed the inoculation of trouble and did not possess the immunity to withstand the onslaught. While I thought I had success, the process of demise was already at work. Early detection of EFB is just as important as with Varroa. In fact, it seems that once it it visibly detected it’s a little too late.
I’ll come back to EFB in a later post. In the rest of this one I want to give some last-of-the-year pointers on feeding. But I’ll say this much: don’t take success for granted and add EFB to the list of challenges to be conquered early.
There are two main purposes for fall feeding. One, to keep egg laying stimulated with an artificial nectar flow so that there are a lot of new bees to go into the winter. And two, to develop a store of food for the winter.
For those of us in northern climates, our opportunity to feed for brood production is over. A few prolific queens might still be laying a few eggs, and, in most cases, there will be some capped brood to emerge yet. But, for all practical purposes, brood rearing is done for the season. That’s a good thing. It gives the queen a rest, breaks the brood cycle, and allows for other benefits of dormancy. But, if brood rearing ended in August, the chance of survival is slim indeed. There might be a lot of bees in that hive, but they are old bees—too old to survive the winter. By February or March, they will be dead on the bottom board. At this point, any chance of survival will depend on the chance that there was a late brood cycle or two as a result of a goldenrod or aster nectar flow, that the genetics of your hive is a small-cluster winterer, and that the winter is fairly mild. This is not a likely combination, but since hope is all that is left, then, of course, hope—and learn.
For sufficient winter stores, we still have a bit of a chance. While the feeding that you did through August, September and October may have translated into brood that will be adequate for successful overwintering, there may not be enough “stores” to keep it from starving. A good hive that has a basketball size cluster will need around eighty pounds of feed to see it through a five-month (more or less) winter. That’s two deep brood boxes pretty full of feed (honey or syrup). The hive will have a certain (heft) when lifted from the back of the hive. That “heft” is something you learn but eighty pounds lifted from the back and bottom of a hive on a regular hive stand is going to take some effort. If you “heft” it expecting it to be heavy and to take effort but instead the hive about “jumps” off the hive stand, it’s light! There isn’t enough feed in there to last the winter!
There are a few options.
1) Pull frames of feed from other hives that have more than they need. Or use frames of feed, full frames, that is, from dead-outs. No, using frames of feed from dead-outs won’t cause any problems.
2) If you have really good warm weather in late October and into November, you can feed a thick syrup (1/3 water to 2/3 sugar) with frame feeders or top feeders. It’s good to put some Honey-B-Healthy with the syrup and remember that they will be much slower to take it because temperatures drop at night and the bees go into cluster.
3) Most preferable, feed with one quart zip-loc bags. Yes, it works, but you must do several things to be successful. First, make sure the bags do not leak when zipped shut. Second, use a pin to prick at least half dozen holes in the one side. It won’t make a mess, but it will ooze out enough for bees to get it. And third, place the filled bag with pin pricks down, directly on top bars. Make sure the bees have access to some of the pricks in between the top bars. You will also need a spacer of some sort to accommodate the bag height. If hives are really light, place two on the hive. Do this as long as you need to to put on the weight that the colony needs. Bees will take that syrup even when they are in cluster. This method can be used to “weight up” hives well into the winter.
4) And then there are sugar bricks. These hard, square blocks can be put directly on top of top bars and the cluster of bees will migrate up to it, soften it with their heat, and consume it. You will need a three-inch spacer to accommodate the brick. Our winter chip boxes (more on that in a later post) have space for them built into them. Using sugar bricks is an emergency measure, but it is often good insurance, especially when there is a question about adequate food stores.
That’s it for now. I’ll attempt at least another post in December. And then will be the Bee Expo. Don’t miss our deals for that and we hope to see you there!
-Jonathan Showalter | Beeline of Michigan
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Michigan
Monday through Friday, 8:00 A.M. to 12:00 PM and 1:00 PM to 5:00 P.M., EDT. We are closed for most major holidays.
Address: 20960 M-60, Mendon, MI 49072
Email: sales@beelinewoodenware.com
Phone: 269-496-7001
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Address: 19019 Moon Road SW, Rochester, WA 98579
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Phone: 360-280-5274
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About Beeline
Beeline Apiaries and Woodenware, LLC, is a limited liability company registered in the State of Michigan. We along with our manufacturing partner, Beeline of Washington, are intent on providing our customers with a safe and happy experience.
Our website address is www.beelinewoodenware.com.
Should you need to Contact Beeline Apiaries and Woodenware, LLC, you may do so in one of the following ways:
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Beeline Apiaries and Woodenware, LLC
20960 M-60 Mendon, MI 49072
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Call or email the branch nearest you to determine location eligibility. Visit our Locate a Dealer page to view a map of current Beeline dealers. If you are outside of 60 or 80 miles of an existing, protected Beeline dealer, you are likely eligible. Your nearest branch will be able to tell you if your nearest Beeline dealer is protected or not. If you are eligible, read our policy here thoroughly before deciding which level you would like to enter. Once decided, fill out the application form found in the policy document, and submit to your nearest branch. As soon as they accept your application, you are free to place your initial order. The total of this initial order will determine which level you are entering, and which discounts you receive.
To maintain your level, your total invoiced sales within 12 months (or if you have begun mid-season, we extrapolate your total based on your total sales in that time period) must exceed the Annual Total in the chart above. To move to the next higher level, your total invoiced sales to date must exceed the Annual Total of the higher level. For example, if you are a Worker Level Dealer, and wish to become a Queen Level Dealer, your total invoiced sales to date must exceed $30,000, to become a Queen dealer. This can happen anytime within the 12-month period.
Not able to reach the Drone Level, but still want to buy and resell? Sure! We will give you quantity pricing and you can resell as much as you want!
Please remember, all dealer discounts are taken off our low-volume pricing. Catalog quantities and discounts are disregarded. This pricing is usually the same as our catalog pricing, unless prices have changed mid-year.
Every year on November 1st, we will assess your dealership level, based on your total invoiced sales to date, and determine which level you will be in for the next year.
Read about pricing, advertising, production, shipping, placing orders, and dealership perks in our policy here.
We also strongly recommend associations, clubs, bee schools, etc. to pool their order for a “dealership” status. A primary objective of our dealership network is to cut shipping costs for the end customer, so any of these “dealership” methods helps everyone. Can you or someone you know fill a spot in our Dealership Map?